Skip to main content

My 2022 went to tryout and received an invite to play with East Coast Sox. Their latest email about the fall stated the events would be wood only. 

Previously, I’ve made myself dizzy researching the differences in maple, ash, and bamboo ( hadn’t heard of that before this summer). I know he’s probably going to go through a few over the next several years, so I don’t plan to go crazy just yet. 

What are your recommendations for a good bat to start out with? I’m sure he will go with a 33/30.  He’s 6’2”/175, and has swung a 32/29 the last two years. 

Thanks

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Picking a bat is such an individual thing... 

If you haven't already, do a little research about turn models.  I found that helped some.  And don't overlook birch among your options--some say it's a good compromise between the hardness of maple and the (relative) durability of ash.  My son's favorite wood bat was a birch Rawlings Velo -- https://www.rawlings.com/product/R110BV.html // currently on sale.  Although to be honest, I think a lot of his fondness for his birch bat was b/c he said it "looks really dope."  (He is a PO now, so we have a bunch of bats gathering dust in the garage.)

When my son first needed a wood bat, my process was un-scientific:  I looked for decent-but-not-expensive wood bats on sale and bought several for him to try--different woods, but turn model and weight distribution consistent (I hoped) with the metal bat he had been using.  Son used those at practices for a bit, chose his favorite pretty quickly.  

And maybe this is too obvious to mention, but once your kid picks the bat he likes, I'd try to grab at least one more while they are still on sale.  Everyone has their own budgets and predilections, but for a 2022 I'd have a hard time spending more than $100 on a wood bat.  Technology doesn't come into play to the extent it does with metal or composite bats, and any wood bat is always one swing away from being kindling...

JDUBSDAD posted:

My 2022 swings a Marucci Cutch 22 (33/30)  He's used it extensively in batting practice and in a few games over the past year and it is still going strong.  Prior to that he had the same bat in 32/29 and it never broke despite a lot of use.   I think I paid about $150 for each bat.

My son has used that same bat and loves it.  It's a bit pricey, but he's had better luck with them holding up than others. 

Eddy Johnson posted:

Baum bats are nearly indestructible and have never been eliminated for use from any showcase tourneys I've been to.  Pretty good investment so far after 1.5 years.

Second that. Son was in the same situation -- travel team swings only wood -- and it took me a year before making the investment in a Baum. Should have done it sooner.

As long as you buy a good piece of wood the rest is in the batter feel.

The weighting, balance points, thickness of handle and so forth  will vary. Some feel better then others to your son. There are literally unlimited amount of bat guys anymore. National, regional, small locals...tremendous amount of options.

I remember when Victus was a small regional, still have a soft spot for them. We used to walk in the New Jersey location and they would customize on the spot. Going rate was 70 or 75 bucks...then they started creeping up - they got even bigger signed some MLB guys and prices almost doubled overnight when they relocated to new facility in KOP. Did the bat improve? Hmmm....

Don't go buy a 39.99 bat at Dicks off the rack and expect it be a good one.

 

Baum Bat- I figured it out early, bought ours 3 years ago.  Everyone else has since said Why didn't we buy one earlier, that would have saved us a lot of money....  Before you or your son buy or use a wood bat(if not a Baum Bat), learn about wood grain in bats.  What to look for, maple end grain or face grain.  Talk to someone who knows this stuff for a tutorial.  Not all wood bats are the same.  I have noticed a decrease in wood quality in Marucci bats over the years.

Justbats.com is good.  They also have some info on turn models here:  https://www.justbats.com/buyin.../baseball-bats/wood/    A Google search will turn up lots more info.

I also have used baseballsavings.com, baseballmonkey.com and amazon.com for bats, all with good results.  My advice is just to shop around once you find a bat model you want to buy--all the major web sites tend to put them on sale around the same times of year, but prices do vary.  

I really like Phoenix Bats.  Smaller bat co out of OH.  They provide a lot of wood to the minor leagues.  The quality of the wood we've gotten from them has been top notch.  They also do a great job at explaining the different turn options on their site.  If you call them they will talk your ear off about different wood, models etc.  Cant say enough good things about them.  Just for a sample size my son likes the R141 & P2 models.  But go on the site and read about all the models.  They will also customize a model for you...if you like a certain profile but want a flared knob...just give them a call and they'll tell you how to order it.

As others have mentioned Baum Bat is a solid choice if you can use them.  Virtually indestructible.  

https://www.phoenixbats.com

 

 

During our annual Goodwill Series in Australia and New Zealand each year our 2 teams play 12 games with SSK maple bats. The Pitchers are from Professional, National and State teams. We compute 750 at bats. The average # of broken bats is 6 bats. Our players are taught how to use the bat. We use broken bats [taped] or the SSK "BP" bat in batting practice.

The S-1 and 271 models have a very narrow handle and will break when hitting on the handle. The #243 {Bonds model] allows the hands to be place 1"-2" off knob for bat control and quicker swing. you can use a longer bat with 1" extra hitting surface.

Bob

Solution: go to a real baseball shop. Not Dicks, but a place with a cage where you can take hacks with a demo. See what feels good. Buy it. Asking for recommendations here is of little use, it's like buying shoes, on size does not fit all.

If you want to ensure you aren't buying 15 bats over the next 3-5 years, buy a Baum Bat. Those suckers are virtually indestructible and can be used at all events up to and including MiLB

 

Last edited by GaryMe

Definitely agree with the Baum Bat recommendation.  But I have seen some tourneys that won't allow them.  Look for rules notes that disallow "composite" bats.  I think PG's WWBA tourneys are among those that don't permit them.  Sometimes it goes undetected, but you may need to have at least one other bat at the ready.

I also recommend buying one of the cheapest wood bats you can find, then taping the barrel, so that you have something to use in BP, especially if you like to use mechanized batting cages with those hard rubber balls.  You can even use a cracked bat if you use glue, a tack and some tape.  This gets the player acclimated to the different weight and feel of a wood bat, without putting your expensive purchase at risk just for practice.  Use white tape on the barrel, as this has the added benefit of letting you see where contact is being made and whether it is or isn't on the sweet spot.

This may sound weird to some, but I weigh my son's wood bats on a kitchen scale.  I mark the weight in the cup at the end of each bat with a Sharpie.  You'd think they'd be more or less -3, but that is far from the case.  He has bats that range from -0 to -5+.  I find that the more expensive bats that I buy individually (doesn't matter the brand - Marucci, Old Hickory, Louisville Slugger, etc.) tend to be heavier and closer to -2 to -3.  I find that the bats I buy that are "deals"  such as bat packs (3 for $200, etc) tend to be lighter.

Perhaps I have fallen for the marketing, but I don't think so since I've never seen an ad discussing weight.  I became aware of this when I visited the Marucci factory a couple years ago and they talked about how hard it was to find just the right billet to make Albert Pujol's bats at his specified weight and with the best, straightest grain.

Another thing I learned is that ash bats are lighter than maple.   Ash also sounds different, more like a swatting sound rather than a loud crack you get from maple.  I think sound matters (who hasn't seen heads turn when you hear a loud crack on an adjacent field?).

Now I bring a kitchen scale to Monkey Sports and get the bats with the weight we want.

Midlo Dad posted:

Definitely agree with the Baum Bat recommendation.  But I have seen some tourneys that won't allow them.  Look for rules notes that disallow "composite" bats.  I think PG's WWBA tourneys are among those that don't permit them.  Sometimes it goes undetected, but you may need to have at least one other bat at the ready.

I also recommend buying one of the cheapest wood bats you can find, then taping the barrel, so that you have something to use in BP, especially if you like to use mechanized batting cages with those hard rubber balls.  You can even use a cracked bat if you use glue, a tack and some tape.  This gets the player acclimated to the different weight and feel of a wood bat, without putting your expensive purchase at risk just for practice.  Use white tape on the barrel, as this has the added benefit of letting you see where contact is being made and whether it is or isn't on the sweet spot.

From PG WWBA Bat Rules for upcoming Labor Day Classic:

The following are the only composite bats allowed:

Rawlings

5150 Composite Pro Wood WC5150

Big Stick R243CH

Big Stick R243CS

VELO Composite Wood R110CV

VELO Composite Wood R110CH

VELO Composite Wood R110CR

VELO Composite Wood Y151CV

Rawlings Composite 243MBS

Rawlings Maple/Bamboo Composite 271 MBC

Rawlings Maple/Bamboo Composite SL151G

Baum

AAA Pro Baum Bat

DeMarini

Models: D243, D271, I13, D110

MacDougall

PowerWood

Marucci

AP5 Hybrid Pro Model

I recommend going with a classic. Louisville Slugger C271 Maple 33 x 30 . They go for about 120.00 you can shop around and find them for 85-100 . The C271 is a well balanced classic feel w/ end load.

Whatever you decide , go with the more expensive bats. Cheap bats are a ridiculous waste of money. They crack and break quickly.

And Always look for the ink dot. Don't buy anything without the ink dot

Last edited by StrainedOblique

Not necessarily.  The ink dot is used to measure the straightness of grain from barrel to handle.  It does not guarantee that you are getting a high quality piece of wood.  The dot is also used to insure that you are hitting on the strongest part of the bat where the grains are stacked.  The dot should be pointing towards the sky when contact is made with the ball. 

SoCal OG posted:

Not necessarily.  The ink dot is used to measure the straightness of grain from barrel to handle.  It does not guarantee that you are getting a high quality piece of wood.  The dot is also used to insure that you are hitting on the strongest part of the bat where the grains are stacked.  The dot should be pointing towards the sky when contact is made with the ball. 

Not as far as MLB is concerned. MLB approved maple bats must pass the 3 degree ink dot test, and have the label placed on the edge grain (90 degrees different than the ink dot). MLB wants players to hit with the label up. Maple bats hit on the face-grain (label up) can withstand breakage about 8% better than edge grain (ink dot up). Personally, I think there may be a little better pop on maple edge grain (because it's a little more rigid), but I haven't been able to find any studies.

https://community.hsbaseballwe...t-maple-bat-confused

MidAtlanticDad posted:
SoCal OG posted:

Not necessarily.  The ink dot is used to measure the straightness of grain from barrel to handle.  It does not guarantee that you are getting a high quality piece of wood.  The dot is also used to insure that you are hitting on the strongest part of the bat where the grains are stacked.  The dot should be pointing towards the sky when contact is made with the ball. 

Not as far as MLB is concerned. MLB approved maple bats must pass the 3 degree ink dot test, and have the label placed on the edge grain (90 degrees different than the ink dot). MLB wants players to hit with the label up. Maple bats hit on the face-grain (label up) can withstand breakage about 8% better than edge grain (ink dot up). Personally, I think there may be a little better pop on maple edge grain (because it's a little more rigid), but I haven't been able to find any studies.

https://community.hsbaseballwe...t-maple-bat-confused

I think we're saying the same thing here...On bats without an ink dot, you use the label as your reference point.  You want to hit the ball 90 deg from the lable.  On bats WITH the ink dot you use the ink dot as your reference point...not the label.  What MLB found was that on Maple bats they break significantly more when not hit on the stacked grain.

However, back to the original point though.  Just because a bat has the ink dot, does NOT mean you are getting a quality piece of wood.  I promise you if you grab any ol Marucci, LS or whatever off the shelf at your local big box store, you are not getting a good piece of lumber.  

 

SoCal OG posted:
MidAtlanticDad posted:
SoCal OG posted:

Not necessarily.  The ink dot is used to measure the straightness of grain from barrel to handle.  It does not guarantee that you are getting a high quality piece of wood.  The dot is also used to insure that you are hitting on the strongest part of the bat where the grains are stacked.  The dot should be pointing towards the sky when contact is made with the ball. 

Not as far as MLB is concerned. MLB approved maple bats must pass the 3 degree ink dot test, and have the label placed on the edge grain (90 degrees different than the ink dot). MLB wants players to hit with the label up. Maple bats hit on the face-grain (label up) can withstand breakage about 8% better than edge grain (ink dot up). Personally, I think there may be a little better pop on maple edge grain (because it's a little more rigid), but I haven't been able to find any studies.

https://community.hsbaseballwe...t-maple-bat-confused

I think we're saying the same thing here...On bats without an ink dot, you use the label as your reference point.  You want to hit the ball 90 deg from the lable.  On bats WITH the ink dot you use the ink dot as your reference point...not the label.  What MLB found was that on Maple bats they break significantly more when not hit on the stacked grain.

However, back to the original point though.  Just because a bat has the ink dot, does NOT mean you are getting a quality piece of wood.  I promise you if you grab any ol Marucci, LS or whatever off the shelf at your local big box store, you are not getting a good piece of lumber.  

 

I don't think we are. MLB specifically required manufacturers to change the label orientation on maple bats, as compares to ash, so that players wouldn't have to think about it. That is, always turn the label up.

"For maple, which is a diffuse porous woods, the study also showed that impacts on the face-grain side resulted in an increase of about 8% in the velocity that the bats could withstand before failure relative to edge-grain side impacts."

https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/docu...pl_2012_drane001.pdf

I agree with you that the dot is not guarantee of a high quality bat. The dot is there for testing, it doesn't mean the bat passed the test. If the dot reveals a run-out of >3 degrees, then it's not good enough for the MLB. I'd like to think that bat manufacturers don't use the dot as a gimmick for retail bats, but that would probably be naive. Conversely though, there are lots of wood bats at your local big box with no ink dot. The likelihood of those bats being high quality is extremely small. You also have to worry about storage conditions with retail bats. I wouldn't want a maple bat that's been sitting in a dry, 130 degree F warehouse in Phoenix for a few months.

TagMeOut posted:

I Just ordered a McDougall bat for my son.  When I call the company to ask questions about the bat and warranty, the owner picked up the phone and answered any questions I had.  Great customer service.

The owner is a member here (John MacDougall). Seems like a very sound investment if you're playing a bunch of WWBA tournaments, and/or if you just love the sound of wood. With that BBCOR stamp he'll be able to use it almost anywhere. And the joinery is really beautiful. I hope you didn't order yours with a painted barrel.  

Hands down the Baum bat was our choice. Great pop, my son says its not much of a downtick from his Marucci CAT9 comp bat, and is unbreakable. Depends on the kid obviously but mine would break 1-2 per tournament and the costs began to add up. The Baum bat is expensive ($250) for wood but my son has used it for three years now and claims it still has the same pop.

I've seen some kids break at least one per tournament. Always makes me wonder of the kids who break them frequently are holding the bat correctly, just have bad luck, or jam themselves.

From what I can tell, you get what you pay for. I rarely see a Victus Pro Reserve break. I see the $50 models break all the time.

By post soph summer my son played all wood bat. I bought him three LS243. They retailed for about $50 each (would be $75 now). The store sold me 3 for $105. The three bats lasted the summer.

One time my son was on deck and couldn’t find his bat. At the last second a teammate tossed his bat to him. It was a $150 bat. My son broke it.

Note: It’s amazing how many old posts get revived by posters with 10+ posts. They’re new posters who don’t notice how old the post is. Whose going to break the recent record where a new poster revived a threat from 2008?

Last edited by RJM

wood bats break...when they are younger not as many break due lack of velo and swing speeds. it is pretty simple.

- bad swings and good pitching brake bats

- bad swings vs bad pitching break less but still break

- good swings will get you much more shelf life

- the more aggressive the swing is the more breaks you will get when they make a bad one. it is just a by product of swing speed.

moral...make good swings and have couple spares.

@old_school posted:

wood bats break...when they are younger not as many break due lack of velo and swing speeds. it is pretty simple.

- bad swings and good pitching brake bats

- bad swings vs bad pitching break less but still break

- good swings will get you much more shelf life

- the more aggressive the swing is the more breaks you will get when they make a bad one. it is just a by product of swing speed.

moral...make good swings and have couple spares.

Certain turn models can also effect breakage rates. Kid got use to the swing weight of a JC24 Victus. That bat lasted from late summer through the entire fall, but the handle on it is relatively thick compared to others. Guys that like the more end-loaded thin handle models have a lot less room for error.

On second thought, I actually don't mind him breaking really expensive wood bats, that is as long as he is pitching....

@old_school posted:

wood bats break...when they are younger not as many break due lack of velo and swing speeds. it is pretty simple.

- bad swings and good pitching brake bats

- bad swings vs bad pitching break less but still break

- good swings will get you much more shelf life

- the more aggressive the swing is the more breaks you will get when they make a bad one. it is just a by product of swing speed.

moral...make good swings and have couple spares.

Plus, the better pitching you face at higher velocity (high school pro prospects) the more likely the hitter is to get sawed off.

My son’s 16u team players on the bench  used to make a Black and Decker noise when their pitcher broke bats.

Last edited by RJM

Buy at least 2.

2021 was a rising freshman at first wood bat event. About 4-5 players had bats sawn off on Day 1. Needless to say we went out and bought a Louisville Slugger before eating dinner that night to have a spare on hand!

His old coach makes all of his bats now so we buy a few each spring—AP5 turn in both Ash and Birch.

Have fun in the wood bat leagues!

Buy three bats. Then you have a backup for the one that will inevitably break.  

My son always has 3. Back in July a kid on his team had broken his only 2 in the same game. My son let him borrow the backup Victus JC24 Pro Reserve. Broke it on the first swing. Kid broke 3 bats in one game.

I had a kid on my 16u team who was a notorious bat killer at the plate and on the mound. His nickname was Black & Decker. He became a pitcher in college.

Last edited by RJM

Another vote for Baum. Son was swinging the Marucci Posey model (end load, thin handle) -- broke far too many to keep going with that. He loves the Baum and it really seems indestructible.

which baum did he get? my son likes endloaded bats. for wood, he was swinging 318i last year and now swings a -1 k55. he tried a teammate's baum and didn't like it at all bc it was too light.

Add Reply

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×