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you can use a bit of glove oil and work it in, I prefer Lexol. Do not put it in the microwave, do not put it in the oven, do not soak it in water.   Some judicious beating is good, but the best way (if you don't want creases, do like it properly broken in, and want it to last) is to play catch.  Coin operated batting cages are your friend (wear your catchers gear if you do this).  If it's not ready for your game, use your other glove.  Use the new one in practice, catching bullpens, or warming up until it's ready for game play.

Originally Posted by Delaware_Diamonds_8:
To the ones saying not to soak it... Not sure if what I'm referring to would be soaking, but in all of the Wilson glove break in videos Aso, wilson glove guru, says that pouring 150 degree water on the glove then pounding it and playing catch is a good way to go.

Maybe it's a terminology thing. I'm a big fan on Aso and have seen his videos and follow his methods.  I don't consider what he recommends soaking (pour 150 degree water on the inside of the glove through the wrist opening with fingers pointed up).  I think if this as getting the palm damp.  To me soaking means submersion in water.  Whatever you call it, the Aso process worked great.

Delaware,

If you don't have time (or a throwing partner always available) to gradually break in by catching lots of pens, get a wood glove mallet.  Mizuno, Unique and a few others make them.  It is basically a wood ball on a stick.  You can hammer away at the pocket with a shape that simulates a baseball.  You can do it while you are sitting around watching TV.

 

I don't recommend the soaking.  Care for you glove like you would a nice pair of leather shoes/boots or jacket.  You wouldn't want to soak a good pair of leather shoes and you don't want to get a leather jacket too wet.  It breaks down the leather, which does break it in faster but too fast and in a manner that can damage the leather.  This shortens the lifespan of your glove.

 

Use a good conditioner every so often.  I like Nokona or Pro Preps - they don't leave the glove heavy or discolored but do leave just a slight tack that will help secure the ball in the pocket. You can warm the glove slightly to enhance the soak-in process but be very careful not to over-do the heat.

 

I also recommend leather wipes for occasional quick cleaning between conditionings.  These get rid of accumulated dirt and dryness and, at the same time, restore some level of conditioning.  Weiman makes a great one.

 

PS - Another note regarding soaking - the way Aso describes is not as bad as soaking overnight and probably OK.  No doubt this guy is THE guy with glove construction and care.  And I know several MLB guys use this method.  Just keep in mind, they get gloves replaced pretty much as often as they want so long term durability is less of a factor for them.

Last edited by cabbagedad
Originally Posted by IEBSBL:

sowilson....You state do not soak it.  I would like to know why you state that.  I watched Harold Reynolds specifically state on a Diamond Demo that was the best way to break a glove in.

When you break in a glove, you generally want to degrade the leather in very specific areas to make it usable (pliable).  A lot of players like other parts of the glove somewhat stiff so that it provides structure.  Any break-in procedure damages the leather and shortens its ultimate lifespan; this a what we want, but we need to control it.  However, when we soak gloves, or microwave them, or put them in ovens, or oil impregnate them from the factory we are damaging all of the leather in the glove as well as stiffeners, padding, and the rest of the material that makes up a glove (it's not all leather).  The result is a glove with a short lifespan, and floppy not only in the pocket but everywhere else.  If you like floppy gloves with degraded leather (some shortstops do) then do whatever you want.  If you want to break-in a glove along specific lines and specific areas then you need to be more careful, applying oil, force, steam, water, etc. in a controlled manner to specific areas.  This will give you a nicely broken in glove that will last more that a month.  The Aso video's are a great example of how to do it correctly (generally he's just getting the leather wet).  He's very good at working leather in specific areas to get what he wants. Just remember that he's breaking in gloves for pro players who may get new gloves yearly.  You might want to have them last longer than that.

 

I make custom fishing gear (and knives) and work leather for cases, covers, and sheathes.   I use water and force (hitting) to soften leather while I'm working it, but it's not indiscriminate.  BTW, using the large end of a wooden bat works very well to help form the pocket.  However, you still need to catch balls to finish breaking in the pocket.  My son had "game ready" Rawlings 1st base mitt that only lasted 6 weeks before it was worn out and too floppy to use.  We bought a custom Glovesmith 1st base mitt and it took him a good 6 months to really break it in and it's been his go to glove for the last two years and has plenty of life.  Good leather in a well made glove will last years if broken in properly and treated well. 

Last edited by sowilson

Excellent post sowilson.   I used to work with leather too and know what you've said is very good information/advice.

 

For the last 6 years my son has insisted on having the best clove for his game and getting the high end pro-line gloves that have very good leather that takes a while to break in.  And as you suggest, the key to breaking in a glove is a matter of degrading the leather . . . in the right spots so that it'll perform the way the play wants it to.  One player can have exactly the same glove but wants it broken in differently that the other player to get the right feel on the hand.  When my son breaks in his glove, he won't let me or anyone else use it so that the way it's been broken isn't changed.  And the way he has found it breaks in best to fit his hand and get the right feel is constant use of catching balls with it (including walking or sitting around throwing the ball into the mitt himself).  This year at his spring training facility, he found an excellent tool to help with his technique.  Handles from old broken bats about 12 inches long with an old baseball duck-taped onto the broken end (kind of like an old Indian war club) that is used the hammer the baseball glove pocket.  This was much more effective than throwing the ball into the pocket.  So, you might give this a try is it seems to work very well for a fielding glove.

I recommend, to anyone getting a new glove, invest in a Webgem system. When I bought my sons new All Star catchers mitt I also purchased the Webgem. It really works to help speed up the break-in period. The best things is that the bag protects the glove while it is stored and maintains the shape. At $80 its not cheap but I don't regret it at all. I know this doesn't help the OP but just wanted to put it out there.

http://www.webgemglovecare.com/

 

Originally Posted by floridafan:

Head to the coin operated batters cage and catch the balls thrown by the machine! 

Ding. My son's Rawlings Pro Preferred was a beast to break in. It is game ready. But to help, he probably received 400-500 machine pitch balls over 3-4 sessions. He's sit on a bucket with his mask on for safety. As another poster recommended, get and use the Webgem. It helps a lot. Pricey, but he should be able to use it for as many catchers gloves as he goes through (he's on #4 now).

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