Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

quote:
Originally posted by DDshortstop27:
I'm trying to build a pitchers mound in my backyard. Have any of ya'll done this, and if so what is the best way of doing this. thankyou


In your backyard, it really doesn’t make a great deal of difference because you’re not going to have the use that will tend to tear it up or the people use it who won’t take care of it.

Just keep in mind what its going to be used for. If its gonna be used for games that’s one thing, if its just gonna be used for Jr to practice on, that’s entirely another thing.

If its for Jr to practice on, here’s what I’d do. Go to the field where its most likely he’ll play most of his games or practice on. Then, get the measurements from that mound to use on yours.

You’re gonna need some “special” equipment. A tape measure, a string level, a ball of heavy string, a metal stake such as one used to build concrete forms, a hammer, and a screwdriver at least 9” long.

1st things 1st. Measure from the point of home plate to the front of the rubber, then write that number down.

Next, tie the string to the screwdriver, then pound the screwdriver into the ground at least a foot directly behind the rubber. Now wrap the string around the stake and begin to pound it into the ground at least 6-12” directly behind the point of home plate. Once you get it in the ground fairly solid, hang the string level on the line. Making sure the line goes from the screwdriver, across the top of the rubber, and is taunt as possible, continue to pound in the stake until the line level shows the line as being level.

Right now you can measure from the string to the top of home plate and get the height of the rubber! 10” for a 60/90 mound, and 6” for a 46/60 mound. Just to make sure you know as much about that mound as possible, write down the height, then check for the slope. Measure 6” in front of a 60/90 rubber or 4” in front of a 46/60 rubber. That’s where the dirt should still be equal to the top of the rubber.

Then measure 6’ from that point directly toward home plate. and put a mark every foot from the point to the 6’ point. Measure from the string down to the soil and write down the measurement. If the mound was perfect, at the 1st point it would measure 0”. A foot closer to the plate should measure 1”, and every foot closer to the plate should be another inch.

If I were you, I’d rake and pack the mound before I started measuring to try to get it as close to game conditions as possible. Once you have all those measurements, go home and build your mound using those measurements. Don’t forget, home plate MUST be set 1st, otherwise its really gonna be a pain in the butt.

BTW, if you do the measuring correctly, you’ll be very close to what could be done with a laser level.

Have fun!
Thanks, floridafan. I'm about to start offering private pitching lessons. The two homeplates combined with moving pitchers up and down the mound will let me accomodate the four distances (46',50', 54', 60') that youth pitchers throw from out here in the desert.

What's not shown in the pictures are the batter's eye windscreen that I erect above the fence at either end of the bullpen to keep balls from sailing over the fence. My CC&R's require that I take down anything that sticks up above the fence when I'm not using it. I'll also be adding lights for evening bullpen sessions.
I have one almost as nice as Roger Tomas'. Here's the how-to guide:

Get three 2x12's cut to 12' lengths each.

They actually come I think with sides of 11 1/2 ", not 12".

Secure them in a U shape using L joints and screws.

Lay them in the desired spot, then use an edger to outline them on both sides.

Move the wood, then dig out the outlined area to a depth of 1 1/2".

Using a tape measure and straight edge, mark each side board with a permanent marker for the slope you wish to install. You'll need 2' behind the rubber and then the area of the rubber and the area in front, so start at about 4' from the rear and draw a diagonal line that drops 1" for every 1' until you reach the end of the board.

Then place the U-shaped wood into the trench. Fill and compact with clay until you meet the line on both sides. Install top dressing and your rubber and you're done.

Mine is open in the front but using a toe board might prevent some clay from escaping out the front when you forget to tarp over prior to a rain. So RT's is probably done better, but you get the idea!
Sorry I'm late to this thread - the mound has probably already been built.
We did one a few years back and it is holding up well. Mine is much like the one described by Midlo Dad. We used clay dirt that seems to be everywhere in the upstate of South Carolina, then layed clay mound bricks on top on the stress areas. There are websites that have excellent diagrams and count the number of bricks - I think we used about 1/2 a pallate. I would also recommend getting a few extra bags of clay for repairs. Definitely cover with a tarp and wet it occasionally so the bricks don't dry out.
The rubber is set into a post that is secured with quick-crete - this is very solid and you can purchase this type of rubber online.
As far as tools and supplies, you need a level, a heavy-duty tamp, a tape measure, and most of all - your son - to do all the heavy stuff! After all, it's his mound. We actually had fun building it.
I can E-mail pics if you like.

Add Reply

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×